I’m a little in love with the food offerings from Pop Brixton. I’ve eaten at Zoe’s Ghana Kitchen and Koi Ramen whose broth is lighter and thinner than other ramen joints, but still manage to pack a lot of flavour. I used to visit them a lot when they had a stall further down Station Road. The new location sees a slight increase in prices, but open for more days and longer opening times, which I welcome.
Now, when writing about new food restaurants/ventures in Brixton it’s hard not to discuss the ‘G’ (gentrification) word. I’ve touched on it in places and I might do a post offering more of my thoughts on the subject, but for now, let’s talk about a ‘G’ that hits the ‘spot’, and that’s Kricket.
Bombay Butter Garlic Crab
Kichri
Goan Sausage Roll
Kricket have taken residency on the upper level of Pop Brixton to the left as you enter. They have a small menu serving Indian small plates. I went at lunchtime when sadly a couple of the dishes I heard were good and keen to try: Keralan Fried Chicken and Goat Leg Raan were only offered on the evening menu. Nevertheless, what was available was very good.
Bhel Puri had the right amount of tang from the tamarind and a light sweetness from a sprinkle of grated mango. Smoked Aubergine was a more delicate plate, but offered a delicious combination of sweet, sour and contrasting textures. Kichri was a smoked haddock dish a bit like a cross between a kedgeree and risotto, served with raw egg yolk. I couldn’t do the raw egg, but it was delightfully light and nicely spiced. A Goan Sausage Roll was too grissly, but the flavours were on point with a good chilli kick. And a stunning buttery Bombay Garlic Crab ended the savoury plates. A sweet of Gulab Jamum with a carom seed crumble, pistachio and clotted cream ice cream was a spot on end to the meal.
Gulab Jamum
Though Kricket say their food is Indian, I’d be inclined to say that it’s more ‘inspired’ by. Either way, I liked overall what I had and will be going back for the Keralan Fried Chicken and Goat Leg Raan!
Plates are between £4 and £9. My meal for two including a £19 bottle of wine came to £62.
Kricket
Pop Brixton
49 Brixton Station Road
London, SW9 8PQ
www.kricket.co.uk
