“Eh…what’s up, doc?”
Back in early September festivalgoers were making their way to Alex James’s booming backyard, for his and Jamie Oliver’s shindig, The Big Feastival in Kingham. I didn’t make it this year, but just a hop, skip and a jump away I did get to experience a festival of flavours at The Wild Rabbit. Redesigned and renamed in July 2013, the former inn has been transformed into a restaurant with rooms – the reincarnation is simply stunning.
Lady Bamford, of the Daylesford Organics empire, is the owner of the restaurant, where two giant topiary rabbit greet you at the entrance. Inside the interiors have a fancy, rustic, charm which ooze casual elegance. While Bamford brings an heir of style, The Wild Rabbit has also become known for being a bit of a celeb spot and indeed on the afternoon I’m there I spy the original ‘What Not To Wear’ presenter, Trinny Woodall. She looks suitably chic dining with family, but sans Saatchi. My neck can’t crane high enough to see what they’re eating, but judging by what I’m about to devour it must have been good.
First up: Crisp Pigs Head Croquette, Pickled Vegetable Salad with Crayfish. It’s a creative twist to the classic ‘surf and turf,’ which works well when eaten with all the components together. The delicate pickle of the vegetables cut through the deep fried, but yielding, croquette.
The Wild Rabbit
Rump of Spring Lamb, Sweetbread and Ewes Cheese Cannelloni,
Girolles and Broad Beans
A main of Rump of Spring Lamb, Sweetbread and Ewes Cheese Cannelloni, Girolles and Broad Beans has lots of fresh, exciting elements. Highlights are the excellent cooking of the lamb, nicely complimenting the slightly sour cheesiness of the cannelloni filling – it’s a dish that’s a masterclass in great flavours and textures.
Mille Feuille of Black Cherry and Dark Chocolate
Dessert is again an excellent example of texture and flavours, seen in a beautifully crafted Mille Feuille of Black Cherry and Dark Chocolate. Ripe, juicy cherries nestle snuggly within the deeply rich chocolate ganache layer and with a side of cherry sorbet, it’s a dish that both tickles and refreshes your taste buds.
The food at The Wild Rabbit is an upmarket creative affair. With ingredients locally sourced, foraged (where possible) and mostly organic, it’s no surprise to see prices at a premium. Starters range from £8.50 – £14.5, mains £18-£26 and desserts £8.5.
And if you can’t bear to leave after such a wholesome feed, an overnight stay in one of the 12 – cutely named after woodland creatures – bedrooms. Prices start from £105, which includes bed and breakfast.
Travel: the journey time from London to Kingham is approximately 1hr 40 minutes, with tickets costing from £28.80 for a same-day off peak return.
Food I Fancy was a guest of The Wild Rabbit.
THE WILD RABBIT
Church Street
Kingham
Oxfordshire
, OX7 6YA
Tel: 01608 658389
www.thewildrabbit.co.uk
