Several shops along the Kensington end of Kensington Church Street, sits Middle-Eastern restaurant Randa by Maroush. The outside is unassuming and looks more like an old Victoria pub than restaurant, but inside it’s modern, airy and expands over two floors – the top is a mezzanine. The ground floor displays a small open kitchen to the rear.
Randa’s cuisine is Lebanese. The menu is extensive with familiar Middle-Eastern mezze staples such has houmous, halloumi, grilled foods and other authentic looking dishes. Undecided on what to order my friend and I leave the decision in the hands of the manager, with our only request to include the houmous shawarma and grilled king prawns.
mezze: Houmous Shawarma,
Tabbouleh and Moutabal
First to arrive is a salad bowl, which contains a whole cucumber, a whole a tomato, whole green pepper and a few other items. It’s a bit like when you go to a green grocer and point to the vegetables you want, which they plonk in a bowl before weighing it. This may well be the traditional rustic way to serve it in Lebanon, but I would have preferred the vegetables pre-cut. We don’t eat it.
What follows next is a steady stream of mostly very good food. The moutabal is excellent – lightly smoked aubergine pureed with a decent lemony zing. The houmous shawarma is richly spiced with cumin and contrasts beautifully with the light refreshing hummous underneath. Tabbouleh is wonderfully fresh and vibrant. The falafel is tasty and slightly fluffy inside. A portion of Kibbeh, although nicely textured lacks flavour. The mixed grilled selection of minced lamb, cubes of chicken and lamb is well cooked with the meat remaining juicy and a tasty char from the grill.
L to R: Mixed Grill, Kibbeh, Falafel
Grilled King Prawns
Baklawa
Batata Harra with fried vegetables is a dish the manager proudly points out as traditional Lebanese. This might be the case, but it turns out to be the most disappointing. It tastes like it’s been cooked twice – the potatoes are dehydrated and wrinkly, so too are the vegetables. One of the last of the dishes, grilled king prawns is a plate of big, plump prawns. And a selection of Lebanese baklawa ends a rather gluttonous meal on a sweet high.
Price are quite steep at Randa, but expected given the area and the portions are very generous. An average meal for two would set you back around £60.
Food I Fancy dined as a guest.
Randa by Maroush
23 Kensington Church Street
London W8 4LF
Tel: 020 7937 5363
