Soho isn’t short of bars and good places to eat. Zima is a new addition to the scene with their Russian street food and bar. Zima’s home is a listed townhouse with a speakeasy-style bar downstairs whilst the ground and upper floors offer a more restaurant feel with a cosy terrace at the top.
Knowing very little about Russian food, I’m keen to try it. Alexei Zimin (Russia’s Gordon Ramsay) is the spearhead of Zima and his menu is a modern take on Russian classics where dishes are served on small sharing plates. The menu is a mixture of caviar, cured fish, soups, salads, tartars and more hearty dishes such as beef stroganoff.
Vodka Shots
Before any eating takes place, a shot of their flavoured vodka is a must have. The vodkas are infused in-house in either: Sea Buckthorn, Cranberry, Strawberry and Basil, Bilberry, Horseradish or Fennel and Tarragon. Boringly Cranberry is my favourite. It’s such a classic combo but made really well – tart and sweet. The Horseradish vodka packs a punch and clears the sinuses and is well worth a try. It’s a great way to start a meal.
Krasnodar Borsch
A selection of cold plates featuring pickles and salads follow. Of these, the pickled tomatoes and grapes are a revelation – in a good way. The Russian Olivier Salad has pieces of beef rump giving a nice textual interest to the dish.
I’m there on a balmy summer’s evening and next up is Krasnodar Borsch (beetroot soup), which is possibly not the best thing to eat given I’m already at melting point. But I’m glad I try it because it’s hearty and full of deep, rich, earthy flavours.
L to R: Zima Beets Cocktail, Russian Olivier Salad
and Kartoshka Cake
It’s worth noting that Zima also do very good cocktails, Zima Beets is my winner. It’s made using pear infused vodka, beetroot, lemon and agave. It’s sweet, refreshing and tastes healthy even though it most likely isn’t.
The main highlight of the meal comes in the form of Short Rib Beef Stroganoff with ceps and buttery potatoes. The velvety smooth sauce is quite subtle in taste, but the meat is very tender and falls apart at the touch of the fork. The meal ends with Kartoshka Cake, it’s nice and chocolaty, but far too dense and similar to a ball of fudge than a cake.
Short Rib Beef Stroganoff
Zima offers a different culinary experience to the norm with decent food at decent prices in a modern Russian-themed setting.
Caviar from £1 a gram, pickles from £2.5 cold and hot plates from £4.5 and dessert £2.5.
Food I Fancy dined as a guest.
Zima
45 Frith Street
Soho
W1D 4SD
Tel: 020 7494 9111
www.zima.bar
