Lovers of deeply rich, full-bodied ramen, have a fresher and lighter option in town, with self-proclaimed ‘udon evangelists’, Den in King’s Cross. Den resides in a converted Victorian pub, where minimal, light Japanese inspired styling with communal tables and benches are within.
Dining is informal and bright, a bit too bright actually, I can’t quite remember exactly how many shadeless bulbs are dangling freely from the ceiling but there are a lot. Fine for a short stay, but not very relaxing for longer.
Sake-Steamed Clams
Sizzling Beef Steak with Vegetables
The food on the whole is perfectly decent. There’s a choice of small plates titled Tsumami, hot or cold noodles with or without or soup and donburi. The soups come with a choice of white broth made with bonito flakes and seaweed, black broth which made using the white broth and added thick soy sauce or vegetable broth made with Japanese mushrooms and dries seaweed. I opt for the hot noodle pork belly and cabbage soup with black broth. The soup is fresh, clean tasting and the pork tender, which balance well with the slight crunch from the cabbage. After a while though, the flavours become muted and in need of a different element to keep it singing.
Chicken Kara-age
However, let me tell you about the chicken kara-age. Each bite from the juicy tender pieces of chicken is an absolute flavour bomb, leaving the other small plates I try; sizzling beef steak with vegetables and Sake-steamed clams, pale in comparison. The ‘udon evangelists’ noodles has a savoury slippery spring and the broth fragrant. But, it’s the chicken kara-age that will make you want to shout “halleujah”!
Food I Fancy dined as a guest.
DEN
2 Acton Street
King’s Cross
London, WC1X 9NA
Tel: 020 3632 1069
