After the burger buzz of last year, chicken has been having its moment on the food scene, and as it lends itself well to a variety of cooking styles it’s easy to see why. Southern Fried was the thing earlier in the year, followed more recently by Korean fried chicken. Trying to get in on the poultry action is Clockjack Oven, with rotisserie chicken.
Located off Piccadilly Circus, this compact, modern restaurant with factory style décor sits just on the edges of Soho. I went on my tod for lunch, which caters well for lone diners, couples and groups alike. There’s a mixture of high, low and bench style tables. I perched myself on the high table next to a fellow lone diner with the perfect view of the rotisserie chicken in front.
The limited menu is unapologetically all about the free-range chicken, and quite rightly too. You can order 3, 4 or 10 pieces, salads, buns or the newly added Clockjack Oven burger. I opted for 3 pieces with double cooked chips and a sample selection of sides, Caesar salad, cherry tomato & red onion salad, crunchy lettuce & apple with Herb Bites, and coleslaw.
The chicken was the absolute star of the show, moist, tender and tasty. The best of the sides was definitely the chips, with a delicious crunchy outer and fluffy inner and lots of flavour – haven’t had chips that good in a long, long, time – oh wait, never! The coleslaw was light with a nice consistency and the tomato salad was lovely and fresh. The other two sides were not worth bothering with, a bit bland.
I also tried two of the sauces, one was gravy, which was delicately flavoured, that didn’t overpower the chicken and the other, bbq, which had a zingy, hoi sin taste that was very delicious – both very nice.
Apart from desserts everything else is made on site. But dessert is where Clockjack Oven fails. I had the Lemon Tart which was far too tart, too sweet and too gloppy. Not even the side of crème fraiche could save it and I actually couldn’t finish it for fear of my innards retaliating.
So, the moral is, go there for chicken, chips and the odd side, but for dessert, no – well not the tart!
The cost of an average meal for one, not including drinks, is around £11.
Food I Fancy dined as a guest.
14 Denman Street
London, W1D 7HJ
Tel: 020 7287 5111